As the dust settles on this year’s en primeur tastings, one thing is absolutely clear: Bordeaux 2024 is not a vintage that can be summed up easily. It is a vintage shaped by nature’s extremes, human resilience, and the unforgiving economics of fine wine production. There are wines of exceptional quality here, but they sit atop a pyramid built on a base of considerable struggle. As an account manager who spends his days advising clients on how to navigate vintages like this, I can tell you with confidence: this is a year for the savvy, the informed, and the discerning.
An Uneven Vintage with a Steep Pyramid
Let’s not sugar-coat it. Bordeaux 2024 is one of the most heterogeneous vintages in recent memory. The top wines shine with finesse, elegance, and depth, but the base of the pyramid is much less appealing. Many wines were made from under-ripe fruit, high in acidity, with green tannins and austere finishes. Blame it on the extreme mildew pressure, irregular flowering, and poor fruit set that plagued much of the region. What does that mean for investors and collectors? It means being selective is essential. The gap between the top and bottom is wide. But when you focus on the upper third of the pyramid, particularly the classed growths and estates with strong technical teams and deep pockets, you find a collection of wines that transcend the challenges of the vintage.
The Cost of Crafting Quality in 2024
Make no mistake: producing great wine in 2024 was expensive. Estates that succeeded did so because they had the resources to combat nature’s curveballs. That included densimetric sorting to discard under-ripe berries, precise vineyard management to fight mildew, and meticulous harvesting practices to preserve fruit integrity. Take Carmes Haut-Brion, for example. They started with vineyard yields around 45 hl/ha. After strict visual and densimetric sorting, only 24 hl/ha made it into the vats. That’s a 50% loss before vinification. It’s this level of sacrifice that resulted in some of the best wines of the vintage, but it’s not something every estate could afford.
Agriculture at the Forefront
2024 reminds us that winemaking starts in the vineyard. Bordeaux faced mildew earlier and more persistently than ever before. Only estates with rapid-response teams and advanced vineyard protocols were able to contain it. Even then, losses were inevitable. The uneven flowering further complicated things, with many Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines showing patchy bunch development. Estates needed time, manpower, and technology to identify and eliminate under-ripe grapes—something not all had at their disposal.
Precision Sorting Pays Off
Even after managing mildew, winemakers faced uneven ripening within the same bunch. That meant the grapes needed to be sorted not just between bunches but within them. Enter densimetric sorting a method that separates grapes by sugar content using a calibrated sugar solution. It’s effective but expensive, both in rental fees and the sheer volume of fruit discarded. This level of selection ensured that only optimally ripe grapes were vinified, resulting in wines of freshness, purity, and balance—but only for those who could afford the tech.
A Mixed Bag
Organic and biodynamic producers had a tough choice: stick to principles and risk losing the crop or make pragmatic compromises. Many chose the latter, temporarily abandoning certification to protect their yields. Still, some succeeded. Pontet Canet and Haut-Bages Libéral managed mildew remarkably well through early and frequent treatments. These wines, often vibrant and expressive, show that with the right resources and foresight, organic methods can prevail, even in a tough year.
Approachability and Longevity
Unlike the blockbuster vintages of 2019, 2020 or 2022, the 2024s are likely to be approachable earlier. Lower tannin levels and fresh acidity give them immediate charm, yet the best examples will also age gracefully. This dual appeal could make the vintage commercially attractive, especially if pricing is competitive. While the lack of one dominant critic like Robert Parker may make en primeur choices more complex, it also empowers buyers to follow their own palate. 2024 is a vintage for informed, curious collectors who understand their own preferences.
Investor Outlook: Value at the Top
So where does that leave the investor? Well, 2024 is not a blanket-buy vintage. But for those who focus on the right estates, there is serious value to be found. The top wines of 2024 may not match the best of 2019 or 2020, but they exceed many recent years including 2013, 2017, and 2021—often by a wide margin.
At Moncharm, we believe this vintage offers opportunity. It’s a year to follow trusted advice, seek out the wines made with precision and care, and stay focused on long-term growth potential. As always, our team is on hand to help you navigate the en primeur market and build a portfolio tailored to your investment goals. Let 2024 be a reminder: great wine is born of challenge, but real value lies in knowing how to find it.
